A circular necklace measuring 45 cm in diameter. The thin, rust-coloured ring carries eleven small, highly detailed, lost-wax cast human mask heads at regular intervals.

1. Aesthetic Style and Miniature Portraiture

This chieftain's necklace demonstrates Grassfields miniature casting. The thin, rigid ring, rusted in appearance, serves as an armature for a series of detailed, small-scale masks. The artist utilized the cire perdue (lost-wax) technique to replicate the volumetric facial features typical of Bamum art — bulging eyes, broad noses, and distinct coiffures — on a micro level. The regular sequence of eleven human heads, each with an openwork cap, creates a rhythmic collar that complements the heavily ornamented textiles worn by Grassfields royalty.

2. Ritual Function and Royal Pageantry

This necklace is associated with elite royal pageantry. As the collection catalogue documents, during major state ceremonies — homage to the Sultan of Foumban, rituals honouring the dead, and masked processions on various occasions — the leaders of the chiefdoms adorned themselves in their valuable regalia. Wearing this necklace alongside the typical burled cap and a ceremonial sword in its ornamented sheath served as an external declaration of the chief's status, wealth, and connection to the spirits depicted on the collar. As the catalogue notes, jewellery like this serves a complementary function to treasury-displayed prestige objects: it makes the chief's importance visible during public ceremonies.

3. Patina, Material Weathering, and Indications of Age

The thin ring shows a rusty, uneven surface, while the cast heads carry a darker, warm brass-toned patina. The miniature heads show dark oxidation in the deep crevices of the eyes and openwork caps, highlighting the details of the casting. This natural, uneven aging is consistent with a history of use as a worn piece of Bamum royal jewelry.

Summary

This necklace is an example of miniature Bamum casting associated with state pageantry. Its detailed, oxidized heads and the aged ring are consistent with use as worn regalia by the Grassfields elite.